位于苏格兰伊莱的艾伦港酿酒厂在关闭40年后重新开业。由艾伦港酿酒厂提供

"Everything you need to know about whisky and its umbilical bond to Scottish identity can be found in Carol Ann Duffy’s poem “Drams.”"
   - “威士忌及其与苏格兰身份认同的脐带联系，你所需要知道的一切都可以在卡罗尔·安·达菲的诗《Drams》中找到。”

“Barley, water, peat,
   weather, landscape, history;
   Malted. Swallowed neat.”
   - “大麦、水、泥煤，
   天气、景观、历史；
   麦芽。干净地吞咽。”

"The words of the UK’s former poet laureate come to mind in the Scandi-vibed lounge of the reborn Port Ellen distillery on the Isle of Islay, where the first drink some visitors are offered is a cup of pine-smoked Lapsang tea from China’s Wuyi Mountains."
   - “英国前桂冠诗人的词语在爱雷岛重生的波特艾伦酿酒厂的北欧氛围休息室中浮现，一些游客首先被提供的第一杯饮料是来自中国武夷山的松烟茶。”

"It is not what you’d expect to be drinking on a Hebridean island, especially not in a black metal and glass temple to the art of distilling."
   - “这不是你在赫布里底安岛上期望饮用的东西，尤其不是在一座黑色金属和玻璃制作艺术的神殿里。”

"But it soon makes sense: it’s all about tuning the tastebuds in preparation for sampling some seriously expensive, smooth and aromatically complex single malt."
   - “但很快就会明白：这一切都是为了调节味蕾，为品尝一些极其昂贵、顺滑和芳香复杂的单一麦芽做准备。”

"The luxury visitor experience here is billed as a deep dive into the smokier end of the whisky spectrum, a sensory revelation of the kind evoked in Duffy’s “Drams.”"
   - “这里的豪华游客体验被宣传为深入探索威士忌谱系中更烟熏的一端，一种类似达菲《Drams》中唤起的感官启示。”

"“The gifts to noses –
   bog myrtle, aniseed, hay,
   attar of roses.”"
   - “香气的馈赠 - 
   沼泽柳树，茴香，干草，
   玫瑰香。”

"“The perfume of place,
   seaweed scent on peaty air,
   heather dabbed with rain.”"
   - “地方的香水，
   泥炭空气中的海藻气味，
   石楠花点缀着雨水。”

‘Whisky loch’
“威士忌湖”

艾伦港(Port Ellen)是伊莱岛的第十家威士忌酿酒厂，这里现在吸引着“麦芽头”爱好者。由艾伦港酿酒厂提供

"Port Ellen, owned by international drinks giant Diageo, was closed in 1983 as a global recession and overproduction combined to produce a surplus of unwanted Scotch dubbed the 'whisky loch (lake).'"
   - "波特艾伦酒厂由国际饮料巨头帝亚吉欧（Diageo）拥有，因全球经济衰退和过度生产而在1983年关闭，导致产生了被称为“威士忌湖”的不受欢迎苏格兰威士忌的过剩。”

"Now it is the newest member of a club of once-shuttered 'ghost' distilleries to be lavishly refurbished on the back of a decades-long boom in demand for single malt that, perhaps ominously, has recently shown signs of faltering."
   - "现在它是曾经关闭的'幽灵'酿酒厂俱乐部中的最新成员，其豪华翻新是基于几十年来对单一麦芽需求的繁荣，然而，最近显示出衰退迹象，或许有些不祥。"

"In the four decades between closure and reopening, Port Ellen attracted a cult following amongst self-avowed whisky geeks who detected all sorts of exciting and varied things happening to the spirit as a result of it having been aged in mostly older, well-used 'refill' casks at an unusually high strength."
   - "在关闭和重新开放之间的四十年中，波特艾伦吸引了一群自称为威士忌狂热者的信徒，他们发现酒精经过在大多数老、使用过的“补充”酒桶中以异常高的酒精浓度陈年后，发生了各种令人兴奋和多样化的变化。"

"'It was thanks to independent bottlers and some influential enthusiasts that a following gradually built up for these whiskies that, more often than not, were just sublime,' says Roy Duff, editor of Dramface.com, an independent whisky review website and podcast."
   - "“多亏了独立装瓶商和一些有影响力的爱好者，逐渐形成了对这些威士忌的追随者，这些威士忌往往令人惊叹，”独立威士忌评论网站和播客Dramface.com的编辑罗伊·达夫说道。"

"'It was pure serendipity. The magic happened because the whisky was forgotten about and left alone. Being in the (less active) refill casks meant the spirit could shine, and the longer it aged in the Scottish climate, the better it got.'"
   - "“这纯属偶然。魔力产生是因为威士忌被遗忘了，被放置不管。处于（不太活跃的）补充酒桶中意味着酒精可以闪耀，而且在苏格兰气候下陈年的时间越长，它就变得越好。”"

"With its long pedigree — the distillery was founded in 1825 — and its seafront location on Islay, a place of pilgrimage for maltheads the world over, Port Ellen is a celebrated member of whisky’s ghost club."
   - "波特艾伦酒厂拥有悠久的血统 - 该酒厂成立于1825年 - 位于爱雷岛的海滨，是全球威士忌爱好者朝圣的地方，因此波特艾伦成为了威士忌幽灵俱乐部的著名成员。"

"Others that have recently come back from the dead include the Highland distillery of Brora, also part of the Diageo stable, and Rosebank, near Falkirk in Scotland’s central belt."
   - "最近从死亡中复苏的其他酒厂还包括苏格兰高地的布罗拉（Brora），也是帝亚吉欧旗下的一部分，以及位于苏格兰中部佛尔柯克附近的罗斯班克（Rosebank）。"

"It was pure serendipity. The magic happened because the whisky was forgotten about and left alone."
   - "这纯属偶然。魔力产生是因为威士忌被遗忘了，被放置不管。"
   
"Another Islay whisky legend, Ardbeg, was mothballed for most of the 1980s but has been spectacularly revived since it it was bought by the mainland distillery Glenmorangie in 1997."
   - "另一家爱雷岛威士忌传奇，阿德贝格（Ardbeg），在1980年代大部分时间被停产，但自1997年被内陆酿酒厂格兰莫兰吉（Glenmorangie）收购以来，已经得到了惊人的复兴。"

"In 2022, a single cask of 1975 Ardbeg was sold to a Hong Kong buyer for a reported £16 million ($20 million), more than twice what Glenmorangie paid for the distillery and its stocks."
   - "据报道，2022年，一桶1975年的阿德贝格被卖给了一位香港买家，价格为1,600万英镑（2,000万美元），是格兰莫兰吉支付的酒厂及其库存的两倍多。"

"Such are the rewards on offer for waking a ghost. But reaping them requires deep pockets."
   - "这就是唤醒幽灵所能获得的回报。但收割它们需要雄厚的资金。"

"First announced in 2017, Port Ellen’s rebirth was delayed by over three years by a combination of Covid-19, post-Brexit problems with the cost and supply of building materials and a shortage of ferry capacity."
   - "波特艾伦的重生最早于2017年宣布，由于新冠疫情、脱欧后建筑材料成本和供应问题，以及渡轮能力短缺的综合因素，该计划被推迟了三年多。"

"Those headaches seem forgotten for now."
   - "目前看来，这些头痛似乎被遗忘了。"

"The old and new buildings, the latter bedecked with whisky-themed contemporary art, are back in action as Islay’s 10th working distillery."
   - "老旧建筑和新建筑，后者装饰有以威士忌为主题的当代艺术品，作为爱雷岛的第十家运营酒厂，再次投入使用。"

"By 2030, there could be 14 — a remarkable concentration for an island only 25 miles (40 kilometers) long and eight miles (13 kilometers) across, with just over 3,000 full-time residents."
   - "到2030年，可能会有14家酒厂 - 对于一个只有25英里（40公里）长、8英里（13公里）宽，仅有3000多名全职居民的岛屿来说，这是一个显著的集中度。"

"Duffy’s seaweed scent and peaty air are in plentiful supply on the balcony off the first floor visitors lounge, which floats above Distillery Road between the kelp-strewn shoreline of Kilnaughton Bay and the pagodas and whitewashed warehouses surviving from the previous incarnation."
    - "达菲的海藻气味和泥炭气息在一楼访客休息室的阳台上充足供应，该阳台漂浮在跨越海带覆盖的基尔诺顿湾海岸线和从之前版本中幸存下来的宝塔和涂白的仓库之间的酿酒厂路上。"

Alchemical ambience

炼金术的氛围

酿酒厂用当代艺术品装饰了一些新开放的空间。由艾伦港酿酒厂提供

"Across the courtyard, the new still room resembles a vast industrial greenhouse with four shiny new copper stills as its exotic plants."
   - "穿过庭院，新的蒸馏室酷似一个巨大的工业温室，四座闪闪发光的新铜制蒸馏器就像它的异国植物一样。"

"Two giant “Phoenix” stills are replicas of the ones that made Port Ellen’s reputation. A smaller second pair are in use for more experimental whisky making."
   - "两座巨大的“凤凰”蒸馏器是复制品，与曾经赢得波特艾伦声誉的那些相同。一对较小的第二对蒸馏器用于更多实验性的威士忌制作。"

"In the background, the Maltings, a Diageo-owned plant that supplies bespoke malted barley to Port Ellen and other distilleries on the island, emits a rarely interrupted plume of gray smoke, filling the air with the bouquet of a peat-fired brewery."
   - "在背景中，麦芽厂是帝亚吉欧拥有的工厂，为波特艾伦和岛上的其他酒厂提供定制的麦芽大麦，它散发出一股不经常中断的灰色烟雾，填满了空气中的泥炭酿酒厂的芳香。"

"Looking out, if there are no dolphins or Caledonian MacBrayne ferries gliding across the bay, the eye is drawn to the hills of Antrim in Northern Ireland and the Mull of Kintyre on the Scottish mainland."
   - "往外看，如果海湾上没有海豚或加勒多尼亚·麦克布雷恩（Caledonian MacBrayne）的渡轮滑过，眼睛会被北爱尔兰的安特里姆山和苏格兰大陆上的金特尔角所吸引。"

"On clear days, they loom so large on the horizon, it’s easy to imagine Viking longboats darting back and forth, as they once did."
   - "在晴朗的日子里，它们在地平线上显得如此庞大，很容易想象维京长船往返穿梭，就像它们曾经做过的那样。"

 "Back inside, the tea service offers further inspiration."
   - "回到室内，茶点服务提供了进一步的灵感。"

 "Having been served Hijiri Hojicha, a roasted green tea from a supplier to Japan’s imperial court, to attune their palates to notes of hay, visitors might find themselves detecting similar scents in one of the straight-from-the-stills experimental spirit samples created under the watch of Master Distiller Alexander McDonald."
   - "品尝了供应给日本皇室的烤绿茶Hijiri Hojicha，以调节他们的味蕾，使其适应干草的香气，访客们可能会在由总蒸馏师亚历山大·麦克唐纳（Alexander McDonald）监督下制作的蒸馏器实验性酒精样品中发现类似的香气。"

 "The remarkable differences between freshly distilled batches of spirit run off as little as half an hour apart offer an insight into the distillery’s future as a center for innovation with a particular focus on how peat smoke is managed throughout the distilling process."
   - "新鲜蒸馏的酒精批次之间惊人的差异，即使相隔仅半小时，也为对酿酒厂未来作为创新中心的见解提供了洞察，特别关注泥炭烟在整个蒸馏过程中的管理方式。"

"McDonald already has a to-do list of over 1,000 experiments that will involve playing around with variables such as peat and copper contact, and even the shape of the stills."
   - "麦克唐纳已经有了一份涉及对泥炭、铜接触甚至蒸馏器形状等变量进行试验的待办事项清单，超过了1,000项。"

"An on-site laboratory and what can only be described as a make-your-own-whisky playroom add to the alchemical ambience."
    - "现场实验室和一个只能被描述为自制威士忌的游戏室增加了炼金氛围。"

"Innovation was part of the old distillery’s story — it was notably one of the first Scottish distilleries to export to North America — and it aims to continue breaking new ground."
    - "创新是老酿酒厂的一部分历史 - 它是苏格兰最早向北美出口的酒厂之一 - 并且它的目标是继续开拓新天地。"

"“It is important that we recreate that classic Port Ellen character that people love, but we also want to be doing things we’ve not done before,” says McDonald. “For me, leaning on the past is not quite good enough.”"
    - "“重要的是我们重现了人们喜爱的经典波特艾伦特色，但我们也希望做些我们以前没有做过的事情，”麦克唐纳说。“对我来说，依赖过去还不够好。”"

Peat and fruit

泥炭和水果

爱伦港的首席酿酒师亚历山大•麦克唐纳(Alexander McDonald)表示，创新将是该品牌成功的关键。由艾伦港酿酒厂提供

"A glimpse into that past comes in the musky surroundings of warehouse number two with a dram drawn straight from a cask filled in 1979."
   - 在第二号仓库的潮湿环境中，透过直接从1979年装满的酒桶中取出的一小杯酒，我们可以一窥过去的风采。

"His voice echoing in a cavern empty but for the first 20 or so new casks to have been filled so far, McDonald says the 45-year-old spirit is a good example of the classic Port Ellen flavor — peat and fruit balancing each other against a briny backdrop."
   - 麦克唐纳的声音在一个空荡荡的洞穴中回响，除了到目前为止已经装满的大约20个新桶，里面空无一人。他说，这45年的酒精是经典波特艾伦风味的好例子 - 泥炭和水果在盐水的背景下相互平衡。

"He’s right. Subsequent sips give up hints of clove rock, a hard-boiled traditional candy."
   - 他是对的。接下来的一口酒留下了丁香糖的味道，一种硬糖传统糖果的暗示。

"Port Ellen is hoping to attract upscale whisky fans to sample a by-appointment-only Atlas of Smoke Experience."
   - 波特艾伦希望吸引高端威士忌爱好者来尝试只能预约的“烟雾图谱体验”。

"Designed for groups of up to eight, it comes with a hefty — undisclosed, but thought to be in the region of £900 ($1,120) — price tag that includes a locally sourced lunch and a tasting of Port Ellen Gemini, a pair of 44-year-old Port Ellens finished in two different casks, each with their own special stories to be shared with visitors."
   - 专为最多八人组设计，它附带一张沉重的 - 未公开的，但据信在900英镑（1120美元）左右 - 价格标签，其中包括当地提供的午餐和波特艾伦双子座的品尝，这是一对完成在两个不同酒桶中的44年龄波特艾伦，每个都有自己特别的故事与访客分享。

"Bottled to mark the distillery’s reopening, just 274 Gemini pairs were created. The sets retail at £45,000 (about $57,000) each — the equivalent of just over £800 for each standard 25-milliliter UK pub serving."
   - 为了纪念酒厂的重新开业，仅生产了274对双子座。每套售价为45000英镑（约合57000美元） - 相当于每个标准的25毫升英国酒吧服务的800英镑多一点。

"Such ambitious pricing might be taken as a benchmark of single malt’s astonishing success. But there are some in the whisky fraternity who fear it should be seen as an amber-coloured warning of a bubble ready to burst."
   - 这样雄心勃勃的定价可能被视为单一麦芽威士忌惊人成功的标志。但是，威士忌界中有一些人担心，这应该被视为一个琥珀色的警告，表明泡沫随时可能破裂。

"Diageo has already felt the chill of headwinds buffeting the wider luxury sector. The multinational’s share price is down by a quarter since the start of 2022. After a profit warning in November, triggered by slowing sales in Latin America, its latest results revealed that sales of single malts to the United States were down 27% in the second half of 2023."
   - 帝亚吉欧已经感受到了吹击更广泛奢侈品行业的逆风。这家跨国公司的股价自2022年初以来已经下降了四分之一。在11月份的一次利润警告之后，由于拉丁美洲销售放缓，其最新业绩显示，到2023年下

半年，对美国的单一麦芽威士忌的销售额下降了27%。

"There’s also disquiet that enthusiasts are being priced out of their favorite tipple."
   - “还有人担心，热心人被定价过高，无法负担自己喜爱的饮品。”

“Whisky is a people’s drink. Now it is being slowly stolen by the wealthy,” says Dramface’s Duff. “It was enthusiasts who elevated these distilleries to the point where Diageo can pretty much charge what they want — which is fine, they’re a business after all.
   - “威士忌是人民的饮品。现在它正被富人慢慢夺走，” Dramface 的达夫说。“正是热心人把这些酿酒厂推上了帝亚吉欧几乎可以随意定价的高度 - 这没问题，毕竟他们是一家企业。”

“But we can also decide not to buy and in the end, it will be the enthusiasts, not marketing agencies, who decide which are the real premium whiskies.”
   - “但我们也可以决定不购买，最终决定哪些是真正的高端威士忌的将是热心人，而不是市场营销机构。”

Emily Burnham, a distillery host at Port Ellen, said the company thought carefully about its offer to visitors, which includes a shorter £200 (about $250) experience for groups of up to 12 (bookable from June), as well as free once-a-month open days.
   - 波特艾伦酒厂的导游艾米莉·伯纳姆表示，公司仔细考虑了对游客的服务，其中包括为最多12人的团体提供较短的200英镑（约合250美元）体验（从六月开始预订），以及每月一次的免费开放日。

“We need to be careful that we are not pricing out your average whisky lover,” she says. “At the same time, there is a demand for these more luxury experiences.
   - “我们需要小心，不要把普通的威士忌爱好者排挤出去，”她说。“同时，对这些更豪华的体验也有需求。

“At the moment, Port Ellen is expensive because it is so old and so rare. That won’t be the case when we start releasing (the newly made spirit in several years time) — it won’t always be in the tens of thousands of pounds for a bottle.”
   - “目前，波特艾伦之所以昂贵，是因为它太古老太稀有了。当我们开始发布（几年后制作的新酒）时，情况就不会这样了 - 一瓶酒不会总是价值数万英镑。”